How to Prepare Chiles for Cooking
Cooking with chilies is a three-step process. First, you've got to clean them by removing their stems and seeds. (Wear gloves if you're in any way sensitive to spicy food or have sensitive skin!) Next, I recommend toasting them for maximum flavor. Finally, they need to be ground or puréed. I'll walk you through each of these processes.
Clean - remove stems and seeds
Toasting chilies, just like toasting spices, can improve their flavor and add complexity. It's not 100% necessary, but it takes only a few minutes. There are a number of ways to do it.
The oven is the best method if you're toasting lots of chilies. Spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet, and place them in an oven preheated to 350°F (180°C), turning them occasionally, until they smell roasted and are very pliable. (If you toast the chilies before cleaning them, they'll also puff up.)
A skillet is a decent choice if you're doing only a few. Place them in a dry skillet, and heat over medium heat, tossing them occasionally, until they're toasted and pliable. It'll take about three minutes.
The microwave is an even better tool for the job than the stovetop, and it's my method of choice for a single batch of chilies. Just lay the chilies on a microwave-safe plate, and microwave them on high in 15-second intervals until they're toasted and pliable. It should take around 30 seconds.
Ingredients
3 whole sweet fresh dried chilies, such as costeño, New Mexico, or choricero, stems and seeds removed
2 small hot dried chilies, such as de árbol or cascabel, stems and seeds removed
3 whole rich, fruity dried chiles, such as ancho, mulato, negro, or pasilla, stems and seeds removed
2 whole chipotle dried chilies canned in adobo sauce, plus 2 tablespoons (30ml) sauce
1 quart (950ml) homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
Directions
Place chiles on a microwave-safe plate and microwave on high at 15-second intervals until hot, pliable, and toasted-smelling, about 30 seconds total.
Combine all chiles in a medium saucepan and add chicken broth. Simmer over medium-high heat until chiles are completely tender, about 10 minutes. Alternatively, place chiles and chicken broth in a 2-quart microwave-safe container, cover with plastic wrap, and microwave on high power until liquid is simmering, about 5 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes. Transfer to a countertop blender or hand blender cup and blend until completely smooth.
Store chile paste in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Alternatively, divide paste into ice cube trays, freeze, and transfer frozen chile paste cubes into freezer bags to store in the freezer for up to 6 months.
Exchange 4:1 (4 paste to 1 powder)
